Personal style items are jackets, scarves, shoes, boots, jewelry and purses that are anything but basic. They add flavor and individuality to a wardrobe like spices help foods be more flavorful. Some people like lots of such items and collect them. If you do, you probably love to shop and find your treasures anywhere from vintage and thrift shops to the most expensive boutiques.

Here is a checklist to help you decide if you are having a passing fancy for an item or if it will be true love. Each “yes” answer increases the wardrobe mileage you will get from the items you buy and gives you the maximum results from the clothing dollars you spend.

Before buying, ask these questions:

Is it in your color range?
Does it fit well, flatter your figure and express your personal style?
Does the item work with at least 3 other pieces currently in your wardrobe?
Can you get at least 3 different looks from it?
Is it versatile enough to go from a day of work to dinner out with friends or family?
Can you wear it without having to buy new accessories to complete the look?
Is it well made?
Will it be outdated next year or stand the test of time?
Is it worth the money (cost per wearing)?
Do you REALLY love it?

The first two are non-negotiable, after that if you get four more YES’s, go for it!

This is the week you get to integrate your new purchases with your existing wardrobe. How exciting to see all your work on your personal style come to fruition!

1. Put up your portable clothes rack and hang your new clothes and accessories where you can see them as you go about your daily routine. If you don’t have a clothes rack, hang the clothes over doors, windows, or wherever you can put them so that you can see them. Add to these the  outfits you have now completed.
2. Keep your trusty notebook close by.
3. Take some time to enjoy just looking at all the beautiful things you now own.
4. Try on all your new wardrobe and experiment to integrate them with your existing clothes to make new outfits.
5. Try some unusual color combinations too. You can get even more mileage from your basic pieces by scanning the fashion magazines to see how they are currently being worn and how the ensembles are accessorized.
6. Make photos of your new outfits and put them in your notebook along with notes for other ideas and accessories. Add additional magazine photos that give you more new ways to put together your pieces.
7. As the season changes from Winter to Spring use the magazines to help you transition your wardrobe. The pants you bought to wear with a sweater and boots may look just as great with a blouse and sandals. Your new dress is perfect with a jacket. It may also look smashing with a lightweight cardigan in a fresh Spring color.
8. Turn your notebook into your own “Look Book”. Then you use it whenever you need wardrobe inspiration.

Follow this plan and you can be well dressed and out the door in 30 minutes for any occasion. Finally, celebrate and enjoy all the changes you have wrought to your closet, your wardrobe and the smooth functioning of your life! You look amazing!

Spring is in the air – and so is the urge to get organized. Last week I did three Closet Editing and Organization consultations. The major items missing in each of these closets were:

1) a full-length mirror
2) a hand mirror to use to see the back view
3) adequate lighting to determine color matching

These are not luxury items but necessities for any well-dressed person. You have to be able to see what you look like top to toe to determine whether an outfit really works on you. AND you need at least a hand mirror to be able to see the back view. Trust me, this is not something to leave to chance!!!

Finally, lighting matters! Colors are impossible to match in a dark and dreary surroundings. You will have a lot more success and fun putting together ensembles if you can actually see what you are doing. And you will save yourself the embarrassment of showing up in a jacket and slacks of two clashing colors. Even black has to be color matched!

If you need help with setting up a proper closet, give me a call. I can help you organize the closet and give you recommendations on closet designers or resources if you want to do it yourself. Typically, this service takes about 2-3 hours.

Warning, this post is going to take some concentration. It’s long and is full of knowledge I use with my clients. Stay with me on this and you can have an amazing wardrobe!

This week you are going on a shopping expedition and like any other expedition you need to be prepared. You will encounter unexpected bargains and the occasional temptation of pieces that cry out to you but don’t fit your needs or your budget. Be strong! Your quarry is a complete, cohesive wardrobe that will delight you, work for you day in and day out and take away wardrobe anxiety for a whole year.

Preparation: Plan your shopping to be successful: Shopping like a pro means sufficient preparation for much faster and easier shopping.

First a little fun: Ladies, f you haven’t rethought your makeup routine in the past few years, now is time to do this. Dated makeup makes you look older and will detract from the new, more current clothes you will be buying. Go to your favorite cosmetics counter for a makeover and to purchase the needed products. Take some magazine photos of the makeup looks you want for day and evening and the stylist will be glad to help you learn how to create those looks. Or you can call me for a consultation!

Set your budget and decide how you will pay for the items you are going to buy. This is particularly important if you know you need some big ticket items like a new handbag, suit, or a complete evening ensemble.

NOTE: I use the word suit to mean any two-piece ensemble that was made to be worn together. It could be a traditional jacket or duster and pants or skirt, or a coordinating top and pants or skirt. Often you can break up a suit and make many more outfits so think about cost per wearing and buy the best you can afford for what you will wear most often. You will get the pleasure of wearing beautifully made clothes, they will last longer than cheaper merchandise and most important, give you the confidence you need to help you achieve your goals.

Sometimes you find a deal on an expensive piece and it frees up money to spend on other items. Sometimes you have to spend more than you had planned and then need to become more creative to complete your shopping list. Having a budget will also help when you are in a dressing room and suffering sticker shock on the perfect dress/suit/coat that will complete five or more outfits and know that you can scrimp elsewhere. Budget and shop for your completion items first as they will make your whole wardrobe more useful. The biggest waste of money is items you already own and don’t wear!

• Take a last look at your poster board to make sure you have the concept of the wardrobe you intend to create.
• Tuck your list of events and goals for the coming year into your purse along with the shopping lists you made in Week Two.
• Put the pieces of your incomplete outfits into the car now so that you can match them in the stores without having to guess at whether the color and styles will work together. If you are a boutique and/or consignment shopper, remember that their merchandise is generally not returnable, or only for store credit.
• Pack a tote or knapsack with the various undergarments, shoes, etc for the types of clothing you will be trying on. Keep this in your car too. Ex: Ladies, if you know you will be shopping for an evening dress, bring your strapless bra or make sure to buy one when you buy the dress. Gentlemen, if you plan to wear a shirt under a sweater, bring the shirt. Same goes for undershirts.
• Remember your goal is to complete every outfit.

Plan on two or more outings, depending on the size of your lists. Schedule the time so you won’t be rushed. Usually 3-4 hours is the maximum time one person can tolerate without having the assistance and support of a professional shopper. Make sure you bring some high protein snacks so you don’t resort to the chocolate bar at the checkout counter for sustenance. Take breaks and bring a bottle of water. If you just aren’t finding what you want or just aren’t feeling the shopping vibe, don’t put yourself down, go to another store or come back another day. Shopping takes endurance and has an element of luck to it. Happy hunting!

The final week in this series will be tips on integrating your new purchases into your existing wardrobe. This part is truly magic…you are going to feel so smart and look so awesome! Stay tuned…

Welcome to Week Three of your wardrobe makeover for 2011! If you missed the first week, you can find it here at the website: #1 in the Series: Create, Adjust or Reinvent “Your Look” for 2011

This Week, Clean Out Your Closet
This takes some time and can be mentally intense so set aside at least an afternoon or two evenings. Put on some favorite music to keep your spirits up and make a pot of your favorite tea or coffee.

First:
Set up the poster board you made last week so that you can refer to it as you clean out your closet. And keep your notebook handy to remind you of the special outfits you will need for this year based on your goals.
Take everything out of your closet so that you can see what you have. A portable clothes rack is very helpful but your bed will do. Have a full length mirror handy.

Second:
Try on everything!
Separate all the items you haven’t worn in the past year and categorize why you haven’t worn them. Here are the usual categories: dated, doesn’t fit, no longer my style/color, worn out, needs cleaning, alteration or repair, no longer works for my current lifestyle.

Sort your clothes:

• Remove all dated items so that the remaining clothes, shoes and accessories are current.
• Remove any items that do not fit your body as it is right now.
• Remove any items that are not worthy of you because of poor quality, wrong colors or just worn out.
• Decide CAREFULLY which items are worth storing. Here are some valid reasons to keep a few items:
• Fine quality, classic pieces that you can use again in another way, for instance: a suit with a dated jacket but pants that are still great on you.
• A memento, this usually applies to accessories rather than clothing but it belongs in your memento box, not in your current closet.
• If you are on a weight loss or weight gain program: Fine clothing that you can reasonably (key word is reasonably, not hopefully) expect to fit into within the next season.
• A piece that is just too cool to let go but is not appropriate for your current lifestyle; if you love it you will find a way to work it into your life in the future.

Put your discards and items to be stored in another area so they won’t distract you from your current closet.

Third:

• Test the items you are keeping in good lighting against your face to make sure they are in flattering colors that make you look vibrant and healthy, especially those pieces worn next to your face.
• Organize your closet, hanging all pants together, jackets, dresses and so on. Subdivide your closet into business, casual, evening and activewear so that you can easily find what you need when you need it.
• Now you can see what you are missing. Refer to your poster board and goals for the types of outfits you will need. You may find that you have lots of pants and no skirts or dresses, or lots of tops but only two pairs of black pants and a pair of jeans.
• Set aside clothes to be washed, cleaned, altered to fit you perfectly or to be repaired.
• Make a list of clothing and accessory items to be purchased to replace worn out favorites or to complete existing outfits. This will be your first shopping list.
• Be mindful of your goals and events for the year! If you have an important meeting in March, now is the time to plan that outfit, not the week before the meeting when your attention needs to be on preparing for the meeting!

Fourth:
If your closet consists of just one clothing rack, wire clothes hangers and a bureau that hides everything, you need a clothing organization system that allows you can see all that you have and get to it quickly and easily. Make a list of closet organizational items that will make your closet more functional such as double clothing racks, clear boxes for jewelry storage, scarf and belt hangers, padded hangers, clear storage boxes for sweaters, etc.

Fifth:

• Take discarded clothing to a consignment shop or your chosen charity.
• Wash, iron or take clothing to the cleaners as necessary.
• Take clothing to tailor to be altered or repaired.
• Purchase the closet organization items you listed above.

Jean’s Note:

• Refine the shopping list you started above by adding the accessory items you need to complete your outfits such as jewelry, scarves, shoes and undergarments.
• Also add any additional items or outfits you have discovered you will need to help you achieve your goals. (Ex: You have set a goal to learn to play golf so you will need the proper hat, shirts, pants, shoes and accessories.)

Enjoy the process and get your list together, next week you WILL go shopping!

2011! What will be your image and wardrobe goals in the New Year?

Over the next few weeks I will be guiding you through the process of creating a “New Look”, organizing and cleaning out your closet and preparing your wardrobe for the coming year. Let’s get started!

Week Two:

Tools to Assemble:
A large poster board
Several current fashion magazines
Scissors
Releasable tape or glue
Magic markers (some with glitter if you are that type of person)
A notebook and pen

This week you will begin to create, adjust or reinvent “Your Look” so that it is consistent with your life goals for 2011 and makes you feel enthusiastic and confident about the Personal Image you are projecting to the world.

FIRST:
Set aside an afternoon or evening to tear out pictures that attract you from the fashion magazines. Don’t spend any time analyzing whether the look is right for you or how much the items cost. Just tear out what strikes your fancy. Don’t be stingy or edit yourself – BE BOLD! Consider photos of accessories, hair and makeup too.

SECOND:
Spread out the pictures you have chosen so that you can see the common concepts. It may be a certain color palette or a style that calls to you and will help you define the message you want to send to the world. Use the poster board to assemble the pictures you have selected and magic markers to write words that describe what made you choose those pictures and what you are envisioning. This will start your creative juices flowing so that you can begin to define your new look.

THIRD:
Now put your creation in a place where you can see it daily and notice
your reactions. Post a copy of your 2011 life goals next to it to help you get a stronger vision of how you will use your wardrobe to help you reach your goals. As the week goes along, take down the pictures that were just a passing fancy and revisit the magazines to find more of what is really speaking to you. Post those pictures too. Repeat as necessary until you are happy with all the images posted on the board and how they correspond to your life goals.

Throughout the week, keep the notebook close by the poster board to write out your observations as you define and refine what you envision for “Your Look” and your wardrobe for 2011. Hint: If you have set a  specific goal such as winning an award, make sure you post a picture of the type of outfit you will be wearing at the awards ceremony!

Jean’s Note:
Enjoy luxury of creating just for the fun of it…DON’T clean out your closet yet! This week is for creating, NOT for confronting the reality that is your closet. We will tackle that project and more next week so look for Part Three, coming soon.

Recently I dined at an upscale restaurant in Austin where, over the course of the evening, patrons at different tables were dressed as follows:

1) Business Suits

2) Tuxedos and evening dresses

3) Dressy casual shirts and slacks and casual dresses

4) Cut-offs, Logo T-shirt (Keep Austin Weird), flip-flops; I thought this person had wandered out of the kitchen but I was mistaken, he met up with his girlfriend, who was wearing a lovely dress and heels, and he may have been the restaurant owner; in Austin you never know.

This is not an indictment to not dressing well or even appropriately, but simply an observation of the diversity that is Austin. Men have told me they moved to Austin so they wouldn’t have to wear a tie EVER AGAIN (their emphasis, not mine). That seems extreme to me, but whatever. What does this have to do with fashion? Not as much as it has to do with Personal Style.

Austin is a great place to practice Personal Style. Sadly, what I often see are people wearing ill-fitted, generic clothing that only says they aren’t even trying to attract the attention they will need to get what they want from life. This is ok if you are in the witness protection program, otherwise attention is a good thing, especially in business and in love.

And that’s where creativity can come into play. What is the Power Suit of an artist or a gaming exec? Maybe a black T-shirt and jeans. But pair those with slim black trainers and a leather jacket and it becomes an outfit that can move with the movers and shakers anywhere on Planet Earth.

The Power Suit for a corporate exec or attorney who deals with the courts and foreign associates will be the traditional garb, a suit. But even that has room for Personal Style and she or he could use the more artful wardrobe staples (jeans, leather jacket, boots, sweaters, hats) for casual business meetings, travel, the weekend and to mix and match with the business uniform. For a woman, wear a leather jacket with a slinky long dress and boots or heels and you have a very hip evening look. The leather jacket with a wing collared shirt and black slacks will gain entrance for a man or a woman almost anywhere except a strict black tie event which calls for the dreaded tuxedo.

Yep, you might need one of these too.

And yes, many of us need a tuxedo, not some rented job, but a version that suits your body and Personal Style and will serve you well for the next ten to twenty years of business and social events. And don’t leave the tux in the back of the closet. You can deconstruct it and wear the tux jacket with jeans for day or evening, which is a chic choice in any country, especially Texas. The tux pants will work with a casual shirt or cashmere sweater – wearing the high with the low will quadruple your wardrobe options which is great news if you have a slew of holiday parties to attend. And the tux is amazingly comfortable (and warm!) for New Year’s eve. I have yet to meet the man who doesn’t look fantastic in a tux. And for the women, Yves Saint Laurent gave us “Le Smoking” in 1966 and added a much needed choice for women’s evening wear.

The challenge in choosing clothing is to make whatever you are wearing communicate your professional and personal message (Ref: Talking Behind Your Back). This is easy IF you have available, in your closet, clothing for ANY event you might want/need to attend for business or pleasure. Dream BIG! And don’t say I didn’t warn you. The person you met on the East Austin Studio Tour may invite you to dinner in Tokyo or the next Sundance. It would be terrible to miss out because a dysfunctional wardrobe. Austin may be casual but it is an international city with international opportunities: Prepare accordingly!

This is a clothing game that will have you looking at your closet from a completely new perspective and it can be played by women and men. Think of your wardrobe for the coming week as though you were going on a week’s trip: plan a capsule wardrobe around the basic pieces given below and then assemble the extras and accessories you need to complete each ensemble for your various activities of the week. The goal of the game is to wear just those things which you have “packed”.

If you aren’t traveling right now, at least you can pretend! Here are my basics for any trip or for a week’s worth of clothes wherever you may be:

A suit jacket with matching slacks and skirt
Matching cardigan sweater (Cashmere or cotton depending on the climate)
Matching top or blouse
Additional slacks to work with the suit jacket
Jeans (they don’t have to be blue)
A dress that can go from day to evening
Cashmere or cotton V-neck sweater in a complimentary color
3-4 additional T-shirts or blouses to wear alone or to layer
Raincoat or windbreaker that will fold up or will fit in a pouch
1 pair walking shoes
1 pair low-heeled boots 1pair dress shoes
Slippers or flip-flops
1-2 shawls, one for day and maybe one for evening
2-3 scarves
2 sets of jewelry, one for day and one for evening
Backpack type purse so that I can carry bottled water and a map, hands free
Evening purse
Bathing Suit and cover up

Extras: A soft sided suitcase that packs flat in the bottom of your cases for your purchases. This is more a necessity for me than an extra because I do a lot of my own shopping when I travel. Busman’s holiday!

More Extras: Workout gear, special items based on the individual trip such as a formal dress for a convention or extra jeans for a relaxed trip or hiking gear if going to the mountains.

Sometimes I substitute a leather jacket for the suit jacket as the mood strikes me.

I have used this model for a wardrobe to travel to the tropics, Chicago, San Francisco, Napa Valley and Europe always had plenty to wear. For the tropics I use lightweight linens and cottons and for the cooler climates I take silk and woolens. Since you will be wearing the jacket and jeans or slacks while traveling you can see that if you have a small rolling bag you won’t need to check anything until your return trip. That’s when I put all my dirty clothes in the extra bag I brought, check that one and put all my new treasures in the bag I am carrying on the plane.

Final notes: This exercise can act as a practice session for your next real trip. You can learn to pack for a major trip in just an hour or two! It will also point out the gaps in your wardrobe that need to be filled so that you can buy those things the very next time you shop.

Bon Voyage!

YES! Classic Business Suit

One of the most interesting things about fashion is what happens when you watch old movies or look through old fashion magazines and discover what made a particular look move from a Trend to a Classic. It’s a funny thing that they are so easy to spot in retrospect and when you are in the middle of the frenzy over a Trend sometimes you can’t see the forest for the trees and very bad fashion can happen. Many of the Trends come from celebrities, who can forget Madonna’s Material Girl? But taking your Style cues for real life from music videos, TV shows or movies can be disaster for your career and your Personal Image.

Here’s my list of some Classics and Trends with Do’s and Don’ts. Scan your closet and if you own the Trends that didn’t make it, perhaps they can work for next year’s Halloween costume; if they are a Don’t then just get rid of them and don’t pass them to friends or relatives who don’t know better. That’s just cruel! If you don’t own the Classics, try adding some to your wardrobe and notice how they work for you. Personally, I couldn’t get dressed without the Classics but putting a twist on them is what makes for Personal Style. Ex: For a certain type of event, cowboy boots with an evening gown can make that gown sizzle! Dressing down a suit with a denim shirt for a casual event or dressing it up with an evening top, blouse or shirt gives you so many more wardrobe options from just a few pieces. And that is before you even start to accessorize…

Trends which have become Classics:

Classic Casual Suit for Work or Play

• The Suit
• The Wrap Dress
• Western Boots
• Man-Tailored Shirts for Women
• The White Shirt
• Perfectly Fitted Jeans, Blue or Not
• The Twinset
• The Cashmere Cardigan, for Men and Women
• The Pencil Skirt
• The Trumpet Skirt
• The Blazer
• The Little Black Dress
• The Tuxedo, for Men and Women
• Slacks for Women
• Motorcycle Jackets, Leather or Not
• Khakis
• The Peacoat
• The Trench Coat
• Animal Prints (In Moderation, Please!)

Trends that didn’t make it to the status of timeless style Classics:

Do the forward bend check in the mirror before you leave for work; this is a DON'T!

He's a YES, the T-shirt & jeans are too baggy, saggy!

• Macramé
• Go Go Boots
• Hot Pants, a.k.a. Short Shorts
• Stirrup Pants
• White Patent Shoes and Belts for Men
• Midriff Baring Tops
• Platform Shoes for Men
• Wide Cartoon Ties
• Narrow Cartoon Ties
• Women: Bra Straps or Any Lingerie that Shows, Especially in the Office
• Men: Underwear that Shows (Including Boxers)
• Tattoos at the Office (Unless the Office/Profession is Very Liberal)
• Fanny Packs
• Black Nail Polish
• Cleavage in the Office
• Aft Cleavage Anytime, Anywhere, on Either Gender
• Decorated Sweatshirts

Easy to spot the losers in retrospect! The magic of the Classics versus Trends is that though the cuts change with the fashions of the moment, the Classics can always be modified to work for every body type and Personal Style by using the appropriate fabrics and cuts. It’s the concept that continues to make the item a Classic. Extra note on the Classics: Buy the best quality you can afford and have them tailored to fit perfectly. You will look and feel great and will never regret paying the price for something that you will wear so often and in so many different ways.

Photo by Omini Rossi

Have you experienced trying to find clothing that fits you and being disappointed again and again because the _______ (chest, waist, hips, arms, legs) is/are too _______ (tight, loose, long, short). You fill in the areas and issues that cause you the most problems.

In fact, there is no such thing as Ready to Wear for most of us. Here’s the story: “A fitting model (sometimes fit model) is a person who is used by a fashion designer or clothing manufacturer to check the fit, drape and visual appearance of a design on a ‘real’ human being, effectively acting as a live mannequin…Ultimately, a fitting model aids in confirming that the sizing, design and cut of the garment to be produced meets the designer’s specifications and intentions.” (Source: Wikipedia, Italics, mine) Different designers have different specifications and intentions, think Versace and Armani. They couldn’t be more different in their intentions, and that includes the shape of woman or man for whom each is designing. And even if they are designing Plus Size or Petite, Tall, Short or Portly, the cut, proportion and shape are made to fit an idealized form, not the average human being.

So what does all this have to do with us mere mortals? Don’t expect Ready to Wear to be anything but Ready to Alter.  Buy pieces that fit you in your “hard to fit” areas and have the rest altered, just as the rich folk and celebrities do. You didn’t think they have perfect bodies just because they have money or fame, did you?

In the 19th and early 20th centuries seamstresses traveled from home to home making made-to-measure clothing from designs and patterns copied from the continent or creating truly custom clothing.  Alas, those days are gone but having a tailor who knows your body and your preferences in fit can make a world of difference in the comfort of your clothes and how expensive they look. That’s right, the more perfectly something fits you, the finer the clothing looks and ultimately the better it makes you look.

The moral of this little story: Stop blaming yourself because your body does not conform to some designer’s ideal of the perfect shape or size. Become very well acquainted with a good tailor and use their services to make your clothing truly Ready to Wear for YOU. Then go enjoy your life knowing you look as fabulous and successful as you deserve to be!